....OK, who stole all the space !..... .....and cleaned up a bit....

                                            

Plates and new badges fitted.






Suspension work/Servicing

We are addressing the fast cyclic rate of the main suspension pressure pump.

1.Main accumulator sphere..................................OK, refitted
2.Front suspension sphere....................................OK, refitted (Both OK, grey type)
3.Rear suspension sphere....................................OK but both are low(ish), refitted but will replace (Green type)
4.Front active suspensions control sphere........ .FAIL , Green foam, 19/20, Tight all the way off, good replacement fitted from the Green Goblin
5.Rear active suspensions control sphere...........OK, refitted
6.Anti-sink systems sphere (SC.MAC)..............OK, refitted
7.Front Activa sphere (SC.CAR).......................OK, refitted
8.Rear Activa sphere (SC.CAR)........................OK, refitted
___The result___
The pump switching rate was reduced, but it still had to work harder that it should, Jim was looking worried  as it was still not switching to soft mode correctly.

We moved onto the leak back check from the EV's
__The Result__
after all the struggles I had, these proved to be working correctly....ummm bu55er

We moved on to a Line Pressure Check......it is here we found problems and the exact procedure and the diagnosis will be posted by Jim.

__The Result__
(Jim) We checked for leakage by observing leakage from leakage returns on the electrovalves and observing leakage back into the LHM reservoir, which were all negligible. The car does not sink so that cleared the struts, HCs and dosuer so then it was time to check line pressure.

The gauge in question tees in between the pressure regulator outlet and the downstream hydraulic system.

The line pressure should be a MASSIVE 170 bar. The regulator cuts out at 170 and cuts back in at 140. These figures drop with time which is why it's a good idea to have them refurbished and re-calibrated every now and again.

(at 170 bar, a broken pipe can emit a jet that will cut thru your arm !)

It was there we saw the pump struggling to get to the regulator cutout pressure of 170 bar. In fact it was struggling to get past 120/130 bars and running almost constantly... Diagnosis weak pump...

It's not always appreciated that the hydractive electrovalves need both an electrical signal and adequate hydraulic pressure to switch. On a hydractive car the line pressure is critical to achieve clean switching.

LEGAL